Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Mmmmm....food!

Mmmmm...food!

Alie, Emma and I have all been talking about how good we feel eating the food here. We've been promising each other that we're going to eat better and healthier when we get home...and stop getting too busy to eat properly.

Fresh food...preservative free.

The food that was prepared for all of us at Bushenyi was amazing! It was fresh, harvested very recently and cooked fresh.

Breakfast was coffee or tea, a hard boiled egg (I'd forgotten how much I enjoyed them), bread and fresh fruit...usually pineapple and a banana.

Matoki and kalo were staples at both lunch and dinner. Then there was a mix of cooked or steamed root vegetables, rice and a meat dish. Usually there was a choice: chicken or goat. Sometimes fish was also available. These were always cooked in an amazing sauce...which was called "soup". The sauce over the rice or veggies....mmmm! Usually we also had a bean dish as well as a ground nut sauce at one of the two meals; this was made from freshly ground peanuts (which are one of the crops in the region) and mixed with water. This, on rice or the veggies, is to die for.

All over Uganda, you see these large clusters of green bananas. It took me a while, but I've realized that there are WAY more than 1 kind of banana. In addition to the yellow bananas that we are familiar with in Canada (which we import from Central and South America), there are these tiny ones that have the faint tart apple taste, the ones used for making banana wine, the plantains that can be found in a number of markets. I'm sure there are more.

Matoki is made from the plantains and is a staple of most meals. The plantains are peeled, maybe mashed a little, wrapped in the large banana leaves then steamed for several hours over embers. OK...I have to admit matoki is not my favourite dish. However, it's not so bad with the ground nut sauce!

What I do like are the chapatis and kalo! Several of the teachers attending the workshop gave Emma and I instructions on how to make these. Then, I got the opportunity to pop into the kitchen to observe kalo being made.


Kalo is at ~11 o'clock on the plate.
http://pernille.typepad.com/uganda/2007/01/index.html


Now...there are some things you need to know first.

For starters..."kitchens" in rural Uganda are not the "kitchens" we have in Canada.

You'll notice the large kitchen in the picture to the right has no electronic appliances. It is a separate building...this one was made of the local clay bricks (another story...later). The windows were open, to allow the wood smoke to escape. Food is cooked over an open fire. All of our meals as well as those for another group using this site in Bushenyi were cooked over 1 fire! You'll notice the dried beans, nicely removed from their pods, are waiting to be cooked for the evening meal...in another 9 hours or so. Just above the first (woven) bowl of beans, you can see a log sticking out of a depression in the "counter". This is the "warming overn" where embers and "glowing" logs(analagous to glowing splints you science teachers) are used to slowly steam the matoki and some of the other foods.



I got to watch kalo being made for our last dinner in Bushenyi. First of all, millet was ground down to a flour (I missed this part) and mixed with equal parts of cassava flour. This was all ready in one of the woven bowls. The "cook" was the aunt of one of the young men who helped in the kitchen and in serving food. She boiled water in a large metal pot balanced on the classic 3-stone fireplace.

timinkenya.blogspot.com/.../kenyan-cuisine.html

When the water came to a boil, all of the millet/cassava flour was added at once and mixed with a wooden paddle...which looks like a meter long wooden spoon. For the first minute or so, it didn't look too tough...but THEN...the last 3 minutes or so were serious work! Once the flour mixed in, it formed a fairly stiff dough; the mixing itself started bouncing the pan around. Another of the women used a banana leaf as a potholder to keep the pot on the fire. The heat was reduced by removing one of the larger burning logs. When the kalo was fully mixed and pulled into itself (you bread and biscuit makers out there know what I mean by this) it was pulled out into two of the baskets. An identical basket was used to cover it and keep it warm. This soft, dark-coloured bread was wonderful.


The cook is the woman 2nd from the left. The man to her left is her nephew who introduced me to his aunt and help explain the details of making the kalo.

The chapatis...mmmmm. These are (at a minimum) a mix of wheat flour with some baking soda, and just enough water to make a biscuit dough. This needs to be needed a few times. A small piece is pulled off, then rolled into a circle. This is then cooked in a metal pan with a bit of hot oil. It is spun in the pan (using a finger or two) so it doesn't stick. When done, it is flipped to cook the other side. We usually had chapatis for a morning or afternoon snack. Think about this...we were 26 people and the other group was about the same size. There were enough chapatis for each person ... and some extra....and these are cooked one at a time, over the wood fire. Other things can be added to the chapits...including oil, eggs, milk (instead of water), onions....

There is a whole story about why most women spend their lives in the kitchens cooking the meals as well as taking care of the children. There is a new stove (upesi) that has been invented, here that uses less wood yet burns hotter. This could help women out a lot.

Will try to catch some computer stations at the airports as I travel home. SO much more to share with you!

Meg

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

We're Back from Up-country

We're Back from Up-country!

The Jane Goodall Environmental Education Teacher Training Workshops last week in Bushenyi were a great success. The Canadian and Ugandan teachers all learned a lot from each other. There is definitely a need for this partnership to continue.

We've also just had an incredible 3 days in Queen Elizabeth National Park with our guide, Johnnie, from Wild Frontiers. We'll be posting many stories about our teaching and exploring in the days to come.

Thank you so much to everyone who has been reading this blog and for your messages.

Alie is off on Wednesday the 23rd for Tanzania. Emma and Meg return to Canada, leaving on Thursday the 24th.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Ngamba Island - Forest Walk with the Chimpanzees

Ngamba Island – Forest Walk with the Chimpanzees

Our first “wake up” on the island…right about 6:15 am. Thank you, again, Patrick for the coffee and tea delivery at 6:30!
Over at the holding facility, we put on the green coveralls that the keepers wear when they are working with the chimps. All watches, earrings, necklaces and other dangling things had already been removed. The cameras did not come with us on this walk since we didn’t feel like donating them to the chimps as new “enrichment” playthings!

We met 8 of the female adolescents in the feeding area. We were all (chimps and human guests) a little restrained at first, but Stany and Gerald had us interacting within minutes. Nakuu was one of the first to come and meet us followed quickly by Ikuru…who immediately began to “groom” Emma. Bili was the last chimp to emerge from the walkway and immediately started to scream and assert her dominance over the rest of the group. At the first scream, Nakuu wasted no time in making a 2 m leap onto Alie, clutching her for protection. Ikuru ran around us, then between my legs figuring out that Bili was a little too large to follow her through. Fortunately for me, Bili didn't even try. After Bili left to chase one of the other girls, Ikuru clung on to my leg until she calmed down and went back to Emma to finish her grooming.
Stany called Bili over to him and started scratching and "grooming" her. As soon as she calmed down, all the other chimps resumed their inspection of their new visitors.



Then we were off. To my surprise (and delight), Bili ran over to me, and crawled up onto my back. She was a big girl to carry piggyback, but we made a great team! Stany led our hike…very creatively, I might add…some of the walk was definitely not on trail! A couple of jogs across the fire ant pathways were followed by stops to clean off any of the hanger-on ants. Fortunately, Alie and I were right behind Stany…well, fortunately for us…not so fortunately for Emma. She was carrying Pasa (who stuck close to her the whole day). By the time Emma got to the ants, they were seriously grumpy and annoyed. Needless to say Alie and I helped Stany and Gerald (the keeper who was the sweep…a hiking term for being at the back of the group) flick the angry ants from Emma’s pants and socks. Pasa watched (supervised?) while still clinging to Emma.
After a short while we stopped in a clearing for a rest. Bili, using my left calf as a step, climbed off and went for her own little walk.

While we watched the girls climb trees, chill out, play with part of a jacket (apparently they grab some of the stuff that washes up on the shore) the five of the humans had a great conversation about chimp behaviour, Uganada, Canada and life in general. We all laughed along with Bili when Stany started tickling her! She was most ticklish on her neck and just below her belly. While Bili tried to squirm away from Stany, it was SO obvious she loved every minute of the attention!

As soon as we stood up, Bili grabbed my arm so I couldn’t get away. When I stopped moving, she climbed on to my back, ready for the rest of the trip. Pasa and Nakuu were kind enough to walk back on their own, but Bili needs a lot of attention and human contact when she is out on walks. She was really sweet. I was trying to convince her that her (longer) arms would be better to move the tree branches and vines out of our way, but she seemed to think that holding one arm across my upper chest and holding my shoulder with the other arm…and ducking her head into my back…was more preferable for her.

I think I can also speak for Alie and Emma when I say that this was one of the best experiences of my life!

Thanks for the great workout Bili (this was worth 2 hours in the gym).



It's a Small World!


It’s a Small World!
A very tiny island, half way around the world and Samantha Quackenbush and I meet up after 3 years! Way cool. She and Julie Hendren are traveling in Uganda for a holiday this month and we are both on Ngamba Island at the same time! We were ALL blown away by this experience!
Check out next blogs for some of the details!



See you back in Canada Sam and Julie!


A Tour of Ngamba Island

A tour of Ngamba Island

When you arrive at the dock, we were welcomed by a very friendly staff. Bruce took us to an education room where he explained to us about the threats facing chimpanzees. He talked about habitat destruction due to expanding urban areas and the cutting of trees for making charcoal, poaching and the bushmeat trade, the capture of baby chimpanzees for pets or zoos, regional conflicts in areas where chimpanzees are living, and chimpanzees getting caught in snares and traps set for other game. He talked about how, through education, the situation in Uganda is improving - but it has not been erased - there is still more to be done.


We then went to the A frame to meet Patrick, our guide from Wild Frontiers. We sat and enjoyed a cup of tea or coffee while Patrick introduced us to the island. This is where we ate breakfast, lunch and dinner. We then went to see the 2:30pm feeding - I will tell you more about this later.








Patrick then showed us to our tents where we were able to unpack and get ready for the feeding. We met Fred, the veteranarian on Ngamba Island, and he talked to us about how we felt about meeting the chimpanzees, our thoughts about our stay in Uganda as well as our thoughts about conservation.





Fred invited us up to see how the evening feeding differed from the morning and afternoon feedings. We helped to mix the porridge (for the older chimpanzees and the milk for the baby chimpanzees). The older chimpanzees are fed from a metal bowl and the babies (Mac and Afrika) were fed from a cup. The older ones would take the bowl and feed themselves while the younger ones would need you to hold the cup for them - however, sometimes, they gave you a hand - reaching through and tipping the cup up. When I was feeding Mac, he reached through and rubbed my chin - I think I must have had some dirt there. In this picture, you can see Fred tickling Afrika. The chimpanzees like to be tickled and are especially ticklish around their neck.

Ngamba Island Caretaker for a Day Program

Ngamba Island Caretaker for a Day Program

Our journey to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary has been a once-in-a-lifetime experience! The kindness shown to us by the chimpanzee caregivers and vet, the hospitality of the Wild Frontiers staff at our luxury tent camp, and the interactions we had with the chimpanzees have all made for a thrilling weekend.

Ngamba Island C. S. is a rescue centre for orphaned chimpanzees and others who have been confiscated from poachers or illegal markets / homes. Because chimpanzees are a complex species with intricate social systems, it is vital that they live in social communities and feed on their natural diet. N.I.C.S. is doing a wonderful job of rehabilitating these animals and providing them with as close to a natural life as possible. None of the animals will be able to be released into the wild due to their familiarity with humans and their enormous strength as adults. Chimpanzees have a 50 year lifespan. The oldest chimp on Ngamba Island is 24 years old.

One of the most informative and exhilarating experiences while we were there was taking part in the Caretaker for a Day program. Emma and I joined this program to learn as much as we could about chimpanzee conservation and biology and to interact closely with the staff.

We were thrown into the thick of things the first evening by helping prepare the evening meal of millet porridge. The chimps spend the day roaming, feeding, and playing in the forest and then around 6 to 6:30 p.m. return to the holding area where they are fed and monitored. The adult chimps all put their arms out the bars of the holding area to receive a bowl or two of the porridge, which they happily drink up. On certain evenings they also receive a cob or corn, an egg, or green beans. Even more thrilling then feeding the adults, was preparing and feeding milk for the two babies, Afrika and Mac. They are kept in a separate area and do not go out into the forest or mingle with the adult community yet. With big eyes they reached through the bars to us and held our hands or touched our faces while we held cups of milk for them to drink.

On Saturday, after our forest walk, Emma and I were given brooms and spent an hour helping to clean out the holding facility now that the chimps had left for the forest for the day. Working with the men was fun and they enjoyed telling us stories about the chimps and about their time on the island.

After breakfast, we went to help prepare the food for the 11 a.m. feeding. We weighed and chopped 8 kg of bananas, 8 kg or cassava, 10 kg of papaya and 10 kg of jackfruit. The jackfruit here are ENORMOUS, e.g. 20 kg each, and are the hardest things in the world to chop. And disgustingly gucky! However, this is one of the prized foods of the captive chimpanzee (Ficus species are the natural preference) as we saw when we went to feed them. The animals come to the fence at the forest edge when it is snack time. The food is thrown down to them from the observation platforms. This time is a good time to see many of the interesting social dynamics within the population. Often, Mika, the alpha male would reassert his dominance with the other males if they came near his preferred females or took food that he wanted.

During the afternoon, we prepared food for the 2:30 p.m. feeding, this time mostly vegetables: 5 kg carrots, 5 kg tomatoes, 8 kg eggplant, 8 kg pineapple. It was really cute to watch them eat the carrots. Many of them, already full on the other vegetables, would lie down on their backs, gather as many carrots onto their laps as possible, and then carefully nibble away at them. Others would stuff a carrot in between each toe and walk back into the forest to savour them later.

The last duty we did as caretakers was to entry daily observation records into the computer. A journal is kept for each chimpanzee (they are all named) and when there is time or extra people around, the logs are entered. We chose to enter the journal for Billi, an eight or ten year old female who came with us on the morning forest walk. We recorded the records from January 1st, 2008 to present and it was fascinating to learn more about chimpanzee behaviour.

We will have many more details of our time on Ngamba Island when we return home. We were pleased to be able to help out in a small way, and in doing so to learn so much.

Alie

Friday, July 11, 2008

Photos of Entebbe Tuesday Market

Photos of Entebbe Tuesday Market

Tuesday evenings in Entebbe, is the Market!
As Alie mentioned in an earlier blog, Carol took us to explore the market this past Tues.
Here are some of the photos of our experiences....



Our first glimpse of the market











Just about anything you want!



and more!


fresh fruit is offered in many, many stalls

the market at night