Johnnie…our guide…the world’s most amazing guide, by the way…had so much to do with our sheer delight in every moment with Ugandan nature. Johnnie…we can’t thank you enough for the experience.
NOTE TO SELF: save up for some really good (second-hand) lenses for the Nikon.
After the 4 days, we got pretty familiar with this group...
Brent…I can see your fascination with the ungulates! I’ve got to admit that the Ugandan Cob
became my favourite of all of the animals. My pictures can’t compare to yours at www.ultimateungulate.com, but I gave it a good try (just wait ‘till I get those lenses).
The cobs are about the size of our white-tailed deer and are positively elegant…well, except for the snorts they used to indicate danger (such as lions). Their eyes are so large and soft and the
antlers are obviously modified unicorn horns!
The larger Waterbucks kept an eye on us as we drove down the park roads.
Check out the cattle egrets hitching
free rides!
All of the ungulates had a nice relationship with the yellow-billed ox pecker (did I get that right Alie?) who picked the ticks out of their coats…a process which looked a bit ticklish at times!
The botanist in me loved many of the plants. There were several tree Euphorbia ‘s, which I’ve only read about. They were way taller than I had expected!
Cactus tree (MUCH larger than the Euphorbia growing in my kitchen!)
with a Vervet monkey snacking on the fruits.
The papyrus swamps brought back memories of Social Studies lessons in elementary school and how the Egyptians made paper from the it.
On the morning of our 2nd day, we came across a female lion. We’d seen a fresh kill earlier…but no predators. (They were likely hiding in one of the many thickets nearby.)
A couple of days later (story to follow) we found out that her name was
pregnant… but otherwise seemed healthy and pretty mellow with the whole tourist group staring at you thing. It turns out that she is one of the older lions in the park. Johnnie explained that her daughters would take care of her and bring her food from the kill.
It was around then that Johnnie began apologizing to us for us not seeing more of “The Big 5” (lions, giraffes, elephants, rhinos, hippos). I don’t think it took us too long to convince him that we were here for the experience and that whatever we saw was perfect. I forget if it was Alie or Emma who pointed out to him that if we wanted guaranteed sightings of certain animals we’d go to a zoo…not to a National Park.
The warthogs (so ugly they were cute) were almost always a mom followed by 2 little ones. Even though we were in an area of the savannah where the grasses were short, we could never see the kids until they got up to follow mom. Emma coined “the warthog train” because they would follow each other in a line...mom running in the lead and following the path with the youngsters behind her…each the same distance from the other all with their skinny rope-like tails are held straight up. Chugga, chugga, chugga….
We were mesmerized at lunch one day watching this little guy getting his own lunch (you can see some of it not quite yet in his mouth). We never really saw him move when he caught an insect; we only saw where he ended up!
The elephants came out of nowhere.
There was savannah then savannah + 3 elephants when they walked into it from behind a couple of trees. Johnnie had warned us that this would happen, but who could believe him? Such big animals being so easily hidden? At the time, we politely thought to ourselves that was nuts…no longer. This also happened in Kyambura Gorge. After splashing across a stream, 2 elephants melted soundlessly in to the (not particularly dense) forest. Magnificent animals!
…and, by the way Johnnie, Alie and Emma, the small noise I may have made was when the older elephant was looking me directly in the eye. I KNEW she was thinking that our vehicle would be nothing to her! I may have made that wee noise to let her know that we understood this – or at least I did – and that she didn’t have to prove it!
Kyambura Gorge wasn’t visible until we were practically in it! It wasn’t even particularly obvious when we pulled in to the guides’ buildings. Another surreal moment. In the middle of the dry savannah was this 18 km gorge filled with green and a noisy river at the bottom. Alie and I spotted a Black and White Bonobo chilling out in a tree beside the river before we got back into the vehicle for our trip to the entry point.
Our guide, Tom (yup…we scored a brilliant guide yet again!) strongly encouraged us to wear long sleeves and pants and use our bug juice...same as Johnnie had. I started spraying it as soon as I heard “tsetse fly”. (Hey Doc Keystone…that insect repellent you suggested is awesome!) For those of you who have not yet had the opportunity to meet these annoying creatures, just imagine deer flies and you’re pretty well there (minus a potential protist or two). Tom guided us (literally) over a fallen log to cross the river, then along to bank to where 3 chimpanzees (a female and two of her offspring) were in a tree. They were pretty mellow at this point, having found and eaten food earlier. The older offspring munched on some fruits, tossing the leftovers and unripe fruits down into the river. Towards the end of the hike, we all heard this loud splashing and ran to a nearby bridge to watch 2 huge savannah elephants cross the river…then immediately disappear into the forest. Tom had mentioned that many of the savannah animals came down to the river for water. On the way back up the gorge (using one of the trails that these animals would use) I kind of wished that Tom had given us some specific instructions on what to do if we ran into one of them! Tom had worked with the Lion project in the park for the previous 6 years, so knew the lion we had seen – and her name. He had been with the chimps for a year and was probably going to stay for another year or so. In fact, he had rescued 2 of the chimps that are now living at Ngamba island! While we drove him to the village he was staying at, he was telling us of one of his walks home (~2 km as the crow flies). He and the other guy he was with ran into 3 (hungry) lions…who immediately got up and moved toward them. Tom was pretty mellow saying that they disappeared quickly after he fired a few shots into the air (note gun in picture above). Auuugh…talk about a hazardous workplace!
We saw Zebras in Lake MburoNational Park…about ½ way between
Late afternoons developed their own ritual. After Johnnie brought us back to the lodge we would buy a beer and sit on our balconies…and just stare at the view of the park until it was time to take a shower (hot water only from 7-11 pm) and go for dinner.